*Please read through full tutorial before beginning any project to make sure the instructions are clear. I have started a few projects only to stop half way through because the instructions were not clear. I will try to make them as clear as possible, but if there are any questions, please let me know so I can update where needed. Thanks!*
I am in love with the twirly mixed patterned knot dresses and have been wanting to make one for a while now. When I stumbled across
this tutorial by Cheri at Moda Bake Shop I was beyond excited! So many I find are intricate with lots of detailing and I was looking for something a little more basic so that I could practice ruffling and button holes (for the knot ties).
This is my step by step instruction in order by which I completed the dress.
What you'll need:
* PDF Download for bodice found from Moda Bake Shop (18-24 months) in above link.
You will need to download this and open with Adobe. Print 'Actual Size' for accuracy.
* Jelly Roll (multi patterned strips - see below)
* 1 yard coordinating fabric
* Coordinating thread
* Fabric Scissors and/or rotary cutter
* Cutting mat
* Iron
Step 1: Cut out your fabric pieces. You will need 4 bodice pieces, 32 jelly roll strips, 5" long x width of skirt for bottom strip, and strips for your knotted ties.
Begin by deciding on the pattern you wish to have when you look at the dress. Once you have that, you will need to iron the strips and then cut each strip into fourths until you have the desired width, which in my case was 32 strips.
You can then line them out to determine the width of the skirt in order to measure out the bottom strip of the skirt. Again, the length should be 5" long x's width of skirt. Once you have that cut, fold this strip in half lengthwise to give you a 2.5" length, with wrong sides together, so that you have the right side of the pattern on the front and back of the strip.
Using the pdf bodice pattern, or any other bodice pattern you prefer, cut 4 separate pieces. Iron flat.
For the straps I took two full jelly roll strips and halved them, giving me a total of 4 strips. And, iron flat.
Step 2: Sew the jelly roll strips together using a straight stitch or zig-zag to form the skirt.
Sew along the right side of the strip with right sides together.
I used an overcast stitch, as shown below, which is probably overkill but I like the finished look. If using a straight stitch, open seams and iron flat so there is no bulk under the dress.
Then, iron out the skirt to prepare it for the next step.
Step 3: Add the bottom strip to the dress.
This can be done by laying the bottom strip on top of the right side of the skirt, rough edges aligned.
Pin the fabric so that it stays in place and then sew with your preferred stitch.
Once done, flip down and iron flat.
Step 4: Sew the bodice pieces.
Take two bodice pieces right sides together and sew along the sides. (Not the armholes or neck line)
Repeat for other two bodice pieces.
Next, put one bodice piece inside the other with right sides touching. You should only see the wrong sides.
Step 5: Sew the straps, finish bodice, add button holes.
**Note: I made my straps long so that I could cross them in the back
versus how Moda Bake Shop has theirs with the button holes in the front.
You can make your straps whatever length you prefer. If doing the
button holes in front, and without a criss cross in the back, you could
definitely keep these shorter. So adjust accordingly.**
You will need to take two strips that you previously cut for the straps. Sew along both long sides and only one short side with right sides together.
Clip the corners so that they lay flat and then turn right side out.
Repeat for other strap.
Iron both straps flat.
Now you are ready to add the straps to the bodice. Slide the strap in between a layer so that the un-sewn short side of the strap is even with the top of the bodice.
Pin in place and now sew along the top of the bodice, including armholes. I used a 1/4" seam allowance with straight stitch.
Clip the corners and turn inside out. Iron flat.
Now you are ready to add the button holes. I used a button foot and set it on the largest size so the strap could easily fit through.
Step 6: Ruffle that skirt!
Make It & Love It has great tutorial on how to ruffle. I had been struggling with ruffles but using this tutorial, I think I've got it right now! I have used the single seam for ruffling and it is easier, however, on this bigger project, I felt the finished look came out way better with the double seam. Do whichever you prefer, either will work.
I also used Make It & Love It's tutorial to help with placement. By following those instructions I was able to give my ruffle a more even look as compared to my first project. It's amazing what a difference 1 week makes! :) Anyways, you can see in my pictures that I used different colored pin heads to mark the middle on both the front and back of the bodice to match to the dress. With 32 strips it worked out pretty even with 4 strips to each section.
Step 7: Attach the bodice and skirt.
Align the rough edges of your skirt to the rough edges of your bodice, right sides together, and pin in place.
I sewed two stitch lines. The first I used a 1/4" seam allowance and then sewed a second for reinforcement with a 1/8" seam allowance.
This is how the ruffles should look once done.
Turn right side out, tie your knots any way you like, and admire your work!
Here is my littlest one with some of the best pictures I could get. She was not about to put her phone down and had no desire for pictures :-)
There are so many different ways the ties could be done and the dress could be worn. This makes for a versatile piece.
I hope you enjoyed my version of the tutorial and are pleased with your results!
~ Meg
